Saturday, February 14, 2009
Sex and Violence in Japan?
Friday, February 13, 2009
Kyoto Day 2
After the aquarium excursion we headed back to Kyoto. We reserve a hotel and relax for a moment as I plan out the adventure for the upcoming night. We followed the sakura guide book I picked up and headed to various locations famous for their lit up flowers. We came to a bridge crossing the kamogawa river where the banks are lined many trees. I managed to get a few good shots. To do so I set up my portable tripod on the bridge railing. When I let go to drink from the can I was holding the camera tumbled from the railing, fortunately onto the bridge and not in the river. A plastic ring surrounding the lens broke off yet overall the camera seemed alright.
We went to the next spot shirakawa river in the Gion district, the most famous geisha district in Japan, and when I turned on the camera again the lens just fell out. I managed to piece it together with tape, but it often refuses to take pictures due to some percieved lens error. Theres nothing wrong with the camera, I swear! We managed to get along enough for me to get most of the pictures I wanted, nevertheless this was upsetting.
Alongside shirakawa was a row of several small restaurants. Each one had bridge to cross as an entryway. The canopy of flowers from the short trees along the river was fantastic. This was a very crowded location. From here we walked without knowing where we were headed, and we came across an area like such a place we searched for the first night in Kyoto. This was an entertainment district with lots of shops that were still open at night. At the end of the the street we noticed a large gateway beckoning us to see what was inside. It turned out to be a huge park with, surprise! more flowers. There were lots of people having parties in the park, but it was a Sunday night. There were plenty of the ubiquitous food and drink stalls, as well as carnival type games. There was even a stall selling Nintendo games. We passed a small dance party, but it was puny compared to the one I saw in Yoyogi Park during the day.
I must point out that the most amazing sakura tree I have ever seen resides in this park, It is massive and simply breathtaking.
Eventually we sat down and had a bit to eat and drink. I was talking to an older couple who were sitting next to us. Our conversation wasn't too significant. They left before we did and Dave was considering returning to the hotel at this point. Just then, where the old couple was previously sitting two girls came and sat down. They were dressed in the Japanese 'gyaru' fashion: expensive designer clothes, bleached hair, and tanned skin. What would eventually unfold demonstrates that these girls were quite skilled in getting what they want. They whispered to each other and giggled. Clearly they sat down right in front of us in order to get our attention. It worked. After a few minutes of talking to them I found myself buying them each a drink and split some grilled chicken skewers with them. They were rather attractive and exactly the type of girl I had been avoiding in Japan up until this point. Although part of me felt as though I was being deceived somehow, I couldn't bring myself to see through the trickery. I got one of their numbers and decided to call her the next day.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Osaka
Surprisingly, it only takes 25 by train to get to Osaka from Kyoto. Once there we headed to Osaka castle. There were food stalls set up in the surrounding areas as well as many street performers. Lots of people gather among the many sakura blooming. Dave bought some okonomiyaki and I bought a biscuit filled with red bean paste. A little girl, about 10, was working with her mother. The girl sold me the food. She was so cute. We sat down to eat and a small boy passing by with his family pointed at us and shouted “gaikokujin yo!” Dave and I just laughed.
Among the performers we saw were puppet dancers, a monkey trainer, and two old guys who played traditional Japanese songs on the guitar. he had on a list and we asked him to play a few.They were surprised by our ability to read and speak Japanese and I feel as if our presence actually drew a larger crowd.
The castle museum itself was ok. The view from the top was hands down the best part. After exiting the castle we saw a clown would shut down until someone gave him money. There was the 10 yen version, 50 yen version, and the 100 yen version. One guy paid 500 yen for quite a silly performance. He was a clown after all.
After this we went to find a hotel. Dave’s guide book listed two information centers, one being located right next to the center of Osaka’s nightlife. We decided to go there and took the train to Namba station.
We walked around so much inside of Nanba eki, and when we finally found the spot where the information center was supposed to be, it turned out it no longer existed in that spot. We asked about it at another information desk and the girl who gave us directions did not even know what she was talking about. We asked again at another location and we finally learned of the proper place. In the middle of this search we were approached by a Jehovah’s Witness, Japanese mind you, and we also came across a spot in the station where people liked to dance.
When we asked about the hotel information, the closest available cheap hotel only had a triple left, and it was $140. We said that was too expensive so we got a discount of $40. It turns out that was the last available room at the hotel. After relaxing in the room for a bit we decided to hit the town.
On the way to find a place for dinner we stumbled upon a woman selling drawings on the street. They were very interesting, and only $1 for a small postcard. Dave and I both bought one. We ate dinner at an unagi restaurant, the service was great, as well as the food. We had glasses of passion fruit liquor, fantastic. The restaurant also offered a good view of the streets below.
After the restaurant we went to find a place for a drink. We saw the performance of two girls playing guitar and singing. I almost bought a cd. As we walked down the popular night area, we came across the Elvis bar called usagi. Dave decided we had to go in, so we did. The owner was a man who seemed to be in his 50s or 60s. We had some whiskey, sandwiches, watermelon, chips, and salami. We listened to Elvis and Duke Ellington vinyl, and saw a video performance of Candies, a famous Japanese girl band from back in the day. When it came time to pay the check we only spent $10. Dave tried to give the bartender more money but he said it was ok. If you go somewhere else they are going to steal your money so think of this as a safety zone. What a great deal.
We headed out to find another bar, and what happened there was rather shocking. We entered the bar Queue, and played various games including darts, all for free. The most interesting was a 3D tic tac toe of 3x3x3. Me and Dave played the bartender and lost. Next we challenged the guy next to us. We lost again. Bet $1, lose again. Bet $10, lose again. But he never took our money. After beating us three times, Yu said he wanted to take us out to eat. We went to eat shabu-shabu, and met his friends there. He bought us meat, rice, and sake. Afterwards he said we were going to get sushi. I was really full and said I couldn’t eat anymore. This offended him because he really wanted to take us so I changed my mind and said I would go.
At the sushi restaurant Dave and I got four pieces of onigiri each: tuna, salmon, squid, and eel. He also bought more sake and drank with us. Once again he paid for it all. He was a great guy, funny, and so generous. He said he was a regular customer there, and it was actually probably the best sushi I’ve had in Japan so far. He left before Dave and I did, I think he had to work the next day. We got back to the hotel around 2 am and somehow managed to checkout for the first time on time. That is, before 10 am. I don’t know how we did it.
We were planning to go back to Kyoto after this, but that morning I wanted to go to the aquarium. It wasn’t as hard to get to as I thought it would be because the train system in Osaka was better organized than in Kyoto. There is a huge ferris wheel in Osaka. to the Osaka aquarium and it was amazing. It wasn’t the biggest aquarium I’ve been to, but definitely the best.
They had the seals, dolphins, sea lions, otters, freshwater crabs, a two toed sloth, an egret and a heron. Supposedly there were monkeys also, but we didn’t see them. Once you pass this entryway is when it becomes great. The whole place is set up based on location in the ocean, specifically the ring of life, only areas bordering the ring of fire. They had the barrier reef, Monterey bay, Pacific Ocean, and more. The main reason I decided to go was for the pacific. They had a whale shark, but it wasn’t as big as I expected. I think it was still young. They also had a manta ray, and the giant pacific octopus. It was the best view of this mollusk I’ve ever seen. But in the end the best was the Japanese deep ocean and the jellyfish. These areas were the hardest to take picture but I still managed to get some decent shots.
Kiyomizudera
Early March, 2008
The trip to Kansai remains one of my best experiences in Japan. The 8 hour bus ride from Shinjuku to Kyoto was a bit taxing considering I had only slept for two hours the night before we left. I did sleep a bit on the bus, but not very well. The scenery was great, with some spectacular views of the Japanese Alps. I realized I don’t like taking pictures from moving vehicles much so I only took one during the ride. Despite the length the bus ride was quite pleasant, yet altogether insignificant compared to what was waiting for us.
Upon arrival in Kyoto Dave and I stopped at the tourism information center in order to find a place to stay. This is always something very easy to do in Japan and allows mystery travel to be quite manageable if you don’t overextend your energy. I doubt that you will find English speakers at all these travel centers, so this is a time when Japanese is useful. Simply tell them how many people you have, the area you would like to stay, and how much you want to pay. They will make phonecalls to the necessary places to determine if a room is a available. I have always managed to find a place to stay in this manner.
The first night we stayed at a ryokan with a shared bath and toilet. The woman who explained the detailed information regarding the lodging asked if information given in English was ok. Dave told her Japanese is ok too. She thanked us breathed an obvious sigh of relief upon realizing that she wouldn’t have to struggle through an English explanation. She was quite cute.
After settling in we went to go eat and ended up at a Chinese restaurant. The food was unremarkable, but the best part was the drunken Japanese guy sitting at the table behind us whose face had turned an unbelievable shade of red. Here is a undeniable proof to the existence of the stereotypical drunken Japanese businessman. The color of his face was truly unlike anything I have ever seen. Imagine a plump tomato and think of what a tomato would sound like if it could talk. Then take that tomato and give it beer. Lots of beer. The end result is something so inebriated I doubt even his friends could understand much of what he spoke of. Hopefully they made sure he got home alright.
From here we went back to the ryokan because I wanted to take a bath. Then we ventured out to find the night life of Kyoto; however, ultimately we failed to do so. What we did find was uphill climb past many traditional crafts, food, and souvenir shops. This street was packed with tourists, mostly Japanese, but we continued on in search of something greater. At the top of the hill we discovered what seemed to be an old temple with a large great welcoming us. In the background were blazing spotlights of glory. Little did I know that Kyoto really likes to light things up at night. This over-the-top display of Japanese culture turns out to be Kiyomizudera, one of the more famous temples in Kyoto.
The lights were spread all throughout temple grounds providing for some amazing night viewing of sakura. We also saw a superb panoramic view of the city; In the words of a passing gaijin, this place will definately go into my list of top ten sights, if such an obnoxious claim can be objectively, or even subjectively made. Either way around lists can be so so obsequious (yes I do mean to use this word).
We came upon something that was exclaimed to be lacking of people presently, so it was a good time to enter. We paid a few dollars without having any idea what this attraction was, but when I noticed we would enter an underground passageway I knew it had to be good. It turned out to be a twisting tunnel that was so dark you could not see your own hand in front of your face. There was a handrail to hold which was the only thing preventing you from walking right into a wall. After several twists and turns a faint light began to radiate from ahead and when you rounded the next corner a rock about 3.5 feet tall and maybe 2 feet across sat powerfully beneath a single dim lamp. The energy emanating from this slab of earth was awesome. On top a single Sanskrit character issued forth meaning. What could this be? This here possibly stands as number one on my list of cheap things you pay for before you even know what you get. Life is full of these gambles. Take the risk.
From here we continued to tour the temple grounds and on the way out I saw the most illusory thing. There was a small pond with sakura trees dangling lazily down on the water. The water seemed completely still with some flower petals drifting aimlessly on the surface. Above and beyond stood the buildings of the temple. People were everywhere. The scene was unlike anything I knew that actually existed. It becomes apparent how little I know. The world awaits my discovery. I will take part in its extravagence. This moment of time is surreal. It inhabits a place in my memories alongside my bizarrest of dreams. I often wonder about the difference between dreams and reality. Is there any? This was definately the climax of Kiyomizudera. From here it was all downhill.
We bought some beer on the way back to the hotel. I was disappointed to find out that the liquor store had already closed. We settled for the convience beer. Back at the hotel we played some bomberman on the Nintendo DS. Dave took his sleeping medication, and despite his increasing delirium and general incomprehensibality I lost every game. How does he do it?
The next morning we walked around town and tried to find a place for the night on our own. We checked a few places but they were all booked. The final ryokan we inquired at we met .a nice old lady. The way she spoke was so interesting with her kyoto dialect. The Japanese she spoke was furthest from hyojungo(standard japanese) than probably anyone else i met in Japan. She told us that just about all the hotels are full because it is a Saturday in the middle of sakura season. She gave us her card and told us to come back again, but more importantly, suggested that we go to Osaka instead and stay there for the night. So that’s what we did.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Back in Santa Cruz
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Japan Reflections
After getting out of the kichijoji station we started walking down a street and the first that I noticed were the buses driving towards us. The street was barely wide enough for them to pass and there were about 5 or 6 all in a row. A bit odd, and bothersome at the same time. The first thing of significance was a bookstore that Dave spotted. It was small and intriguing so we decided to go in. Inside were many books and manga of very unusual contents. These seem to mirror part of the bizarre Japanese way of thinking that I have only been aware for too long now. He showed us a guidebook of underground culture around the world, which included a page about his store. But he suggested if we want to go the best store we must travel to Nakano, which is he more famous than his store he said. Me and Dave decided to check that out at some point.
We continued from the book store and found a custom shirt store whose slogan is: "A good many stimulating clothes exist in this store." My purchase was a green shirt with a cartoon crocodile on it. It reads, " Noisy Calmness. The crocodile walks lovely freely and easily." An outstanding example of the stupendous English of Japan, this is.
From there Dave was getting a bit hungry so upon seeing the restaurant named pancake days he decided he had to go in. Sure they had pancakes but nothing really stood out on the menu. He said you can sit and watch me eat but I'm going in anyways. So we enter, and after a closer examination of the menu I see a BLT. Keep in mind that everything here is pancakes, so thats what you got instead of bread. Not only were the pancakes perfect but what we received was not quite bacon, but delicious thick cuts of meat. This sandwich beats any BLT in existence. to top it all of was the smiley face seared into the upper pancake. Like many restaurants in Japan they serve you pathetically small water glasses. Dave is a drinker, so it was particularly insufficient for his satisfaction. I told him to express his thoughts to the cashier, who happened to be pretty cute, but he thought it was rude, so I decided to. I told her, in Japanese, "The size of this water glass is unsatisfactory." She laughed and said so its would be better if it were larger? (Followed by apology: sumimasen (obligatory, especially when you havent actually done anything wrong)). We paid and left, I would like to enjoy their pancakes again.
From there we continued walking outside and came upon inokashira koen, a very large park. I wanted to take a picture there, but alas, I forgot my tripod so in such a dark environment it was completely impossible. We spotted two people off in the distance practicing martial arts and stopped to watch. I accidentally stepped on a stick and if we were hiding in fear of our lives we would have died, because that sound was impossibly loud. They werent a very exciting event to watch so I told Dave he should attack them and then things would get interesting. Fortunately for him hes not that stupid. After a bit more of a stroll we decided to head back.
Walking between the parks edge and the road we spied two cats in the grass. We went to approach them but they would run away. We are not the type to give up so easily so we followed, as they ran through a path stomped into the ground. Out of the darkness two more cats appeared along the path and joined the fleeing procession. Eventually they led us to an opening with a pedestrian bridge. We noticed two guys with guitars sitting on it so we walked up to them. After standing there for a bit one of them said some people have stopped. I asked them to sing a song so they let loose some type of love ballad type thing. They were decently skilled and one was a pretty good singer. I told them how we never would have found them if we did not follow some stray cats. I got a flyer from them, perhaps I will go to their show.
On the way back to the station we found some odds and ends that were left out for the taking. I grabbed a suntory whiskey glass. Next we went to a used clothing and antiques store that sold their clothes for fairly absurd prices, considering they were used. Nothing much worth noting happened after this store.On Friday I went to Ikebukuro with Dave, Joe, Chris (from Florida) three American girls: Casey, Ali, and Lena, and three of Dave's Korean classmates. Our goal was nekobukuro, the top floor of a department store were you can go into a room of cats and play with them as long as you want for $6. Some didnt mind being held, but most did. At first they seemed disinterested in plays with the provided toys, but that turned out to be wrong as many of them enjoyed it. More than that the best part was watching them chase each other around the room, because as we all know thats what cats do best.
From there the Americans split off except for Dave and Ali. I went to eat with him and his classmates. It was a standard experience at an izakaya, as we tried to figure out what the hell to order on a menu that is so difficult to understand. We went home afterwards but I decided to go to the bar in Fuchu. There Daisuke, one of the bartenders made a comment about how much my hair has grown since I cut it. I told him it grows fast, and he said well you know what that means right? I said no, and apparently in Japan if your hair grows fast you're a pervert. (Note: this only applies to men. The reason was not disclosed but I believe its because women cannot be perverts, especially if youre Japanese, because if they all act so childish they must have very pure minds (sarcasm off)).
On Saturday I woke up and saw the amazing weather outside and decided I had to go somewhere. I called Dave but he didnt answer his phone. I chose Yanaka, because it has more temples than anywhere else in Tokyo. To be exact this one area has about 70.I get out of the train station and make my first stop out arguably the most famous temple in the area, which has the largest buddha statue. From there I walked thru the large cemetery, and as I approached the end a Japanese man asked me what I was doing. He hands me an English map of the area, and I told he I wanted to the temples. He tells me to wait and runs inside the nearby building. He comes back out with another map, and circles the most noteworthy temples. Guess what....? This service was FREE. But not everyone is honest, right?
I made my rounds to several of the temples, which was a great activity to do on my own. Eventually I got pretty hungry and went to find something to eat. At first I found a tofu store where I bought two tofu ball things that were quite tasty. But since it was just before 5pm it was difficult to find an actual restaurant. I started to get lost, with only the knowledge of how to get back to the station I came from. Yet that was far away so I was determined to find some other way of satisfying my hunger. Eventually I came upon a cafe, where I bought some pasta with a puttanesca sauce I believe. It came with a small salad, and I also ordered a kiwi drink, which consisted of a single kiwi mixed in a blender with ice and fruit syrup. This drink was 600yen.
Afterwards I started browsing the collection of art books, and eventually I noticed the gathering of several people who looked like musicians. I was tired and decided to go back, but as I stepped outside I realized there is probably a show tonight, so Id better ask just to be safe. As it turns out there was one starting around 7:30-8:00. It was 6 so I decided to wait as I wrote some sort of Japanese journal entry. Finally they started to practice, and it was wonderful. They played a type of jazz, like french gypsy cafe music I would say. It sounded similar to my parents French CDs I think.
They had an upright bass, two guitarists, a violinist, and clarinetist. One of them gets a phone call from one of the other members who said they would be late so I'll just have to perform sans practice. As it turns out this was the singer. Once the actually performance had started the cafe was packed to maximum capacity, or maybe technically beyond that. Every member of the band was a great musician, but the violinist was unbelievably amazing. This was one of the best musical acts I have probably seen in my entire life. Eventually the singer showed up with 4 other girls, two Japanese, as well as one who looked like she must be the singer's sister. The singer was the only white band member compared to the rest who were Japanese. She still spoke Japanese very well though. Three of these woman sat in the open seats in the front row which happened to be the only seats left. This bothered me because not only did they obstruct my previously perfect view, but somehow they seemed very pretentious. The fact that the Japanese girls spoke perfect English was made even worse by the fact that they mostly spoke to each other in English. I can't really say how this bothered me, but in someway it greatly did. In addition the white girl who sat in the front with them must have been at least 40, judging by her unusually wrinkled face, and she had braces. This may sound like unwarranted prejudicial ranting, but something about these three girls really put me off in a way that the two sisters did not. To top it all off, when being told something by the bartender, who I believe was not a native speaker judging by her african appearance and slight accent, this Japanese girl responded with yes, shorty followed by, "uoh, hai". This was troublesome for two reasons. For one she instinctively responded in English even though spoken to in Japanese, and second she assumed that the bartender wouldn't understand yes, even though I believe most people around the world understand this word.
Enough of the rant though, because this show was far better than any suspicious girls could taint it for me. By far the worst part of the night was when my camera batteries died 5 seconds after I started recording one of the songs. Unfortunately I did not have any spares. During the show I was contacted by my Brazilian friend Chris so I decided to meet him at the bar after the show was over. I would have stayed longer to talk to the band after the end but I wanted to meet up with my friend.As far as the singer, she was very pretty, and a good singer on top of that; however, her first song was not too good. It was painfully obvious hearing her miss the high note in the song twice in a row, only getting it right the third time around. But from the first song she seemed to get better and better. The songs were either in French or English, leading me to believe that she may have been French. I forgot the name of the first song she sang but it was by Frank Sinatra. They ended with the same song, which she sang perfectly that second time.
Afterwards I told the band in Japanese that they were amazing and the show was a lot of fun. I asked when they were performing again and they said at this same cafe. But when is it I reiterated? They said they did not know, so I will have to check back again. Then I went to talk to the singer who was across the room. I also told her she was wonderful, and she nailed that song the second time around. She told me she was nervous, which was obvious enough since she messed up the words on another song. But anyways she told me it means a lot to hear that I enjoyed the show.
So then I headed back to Fuchu.I talked to Chris and his friend Maru-chan, who speaks English very well but hardly makes any sense when she gets drunk. She told me about 5 times how much she respects Chris because he loves his wife. I suppose this makes sense when I remember that I'm in Japan. After all, Japanese men are supposed to not love their wife and be quite distant. In fact, the wife is only supposed to raise the kids and make dinner and clean. The husband also generally doesn't raise the kids at all, and when he does its by example, because although Japanese people generally have a communication problem, the father has an especially difficult time talking to his kids. Is it becoming a common theme among my emails that this city has major problems? I can't help it, I have a hard time lying, but I'm trying to work on that, as you'll hear more about later on.
The significant comment by Chris was when he told he has a chipped pelvis. Apparently this happened when he was really drunk one night, and woke up in the morning to discover a body full of pain all over, as well and considerable bruising. When he went downstairs he found his bike all smashed up. His best guess was that he was hit by a car. Of course he has no idea what actually happened. But onto the good news he told me we're going to have a BBQ by the river next month. I am really looking forward to that, especially as the weather seems to get nice every day.
As Chris and Maru-chan headed home, a foreigner of a large build, at least 200lbs and fairly tall came into the bar. He stopped Chris as he walked out, apparently they knew each other.Anyways I began to talk to him after he sat down near me at the bar. His name is Greg and hes originally from Calgary. He has his own business teaching (English?) and hes been here for about 15 years I think. He had a lot of great information to share with me. I'll give you one chance to guess the gist of it.
Giving up already??
Japan is full of crazily ignorant people. Note the same applies to Koreans as well, but I believe to a lesser extent. I could be wrong about this since I really only know Koreans who study Japanese and generally students of a foreign language are much more informed than their peers, thanks to the broader sense of the world.He had so many stories I dont have the time or desire to tell them all, but a few in particular stand out. One of his Korean students said the window was invented by a Korean. One Japanese student said the northern lights were discovered by a Japanese person. Another Korean responded to a question about where Koreans came from. We've always been Korean. No but you had to come from somewhere a long time ago. Oh... it was Mongolia. So you went thru China then? NO. We came from Mongolia, but we did NOT go thru China. (Note: It is completely unacceptable to think Koreans may be related to Chinese, because they're so much better than them. But too bad for Koreans Japan is actually the master race. This only makes sense because Japanese came from Korea. Does it make sense yet? If so, please send me all the answers because I'm still lost myself.)
Greg also went on a trip to Morocco, Spain with some Japanese. His Morrocan friend was their guide, and during the trip he pointed out a Jasmine plant. One Japanese girl says no thats not jasmine, jasmine is a plant in Japan. He says no, this is jasmine right here. Nope, you're wrong, I know what jasmine is. Look here, I'm Morrocan, we're in Morroco, and this is jasmine.The final story of Greg I will discuss here is perhaps the most pertinent. He has five friends married to Japanese women, and they are all very sorry about this. They all tell him do not get married to a Japanese women, because thats exactly what they want you to do. Then they have succeeded in marrying a foreigner, thus they have won the game of life. At this point sex ceases to exist, regardless of how things were before. Now sure 5 people is not a good sample as far as polling goes, but this can't be a mere coincidence.
Now I'm not saying that all international marriages to a Japanese woman are like this, nor am I saying that I wouldn't get married to a Japanese woman, or get married to one for that matter. What I will say is that I will never get married to a woman from Tokyo until someone comes along who proves me wrong that they are not all shallow ignorant slaves to society, the material world, and ignorance. Greg tells me that in Japan the people aren't stupid. They are simply educated to the perfect level. If they knew more they could be dangerous to a society that works so well (evil mocking laugh). The worst part is I'm more sure about this than every thing else I doubt about this country.One can only analyze what is presented. The only women I have met that do not fall into my stereotype are those who have traveled outside of Japan (the more the better), lesbians, or those over 30. That being said fitting these criteria does not mean that they that are intelligent, for I have met exceptions to all except for one. The one lesbian who I got to know, who was awesome as a person, but unfortunately was not very interested in men, or perhaps even me as a friend since she stopped responding to my mail quite some time ago.)
So when it comes down to it the only women I can say I truly like here are my teachers, Tomoko-san, and certain classmates. Funny how they all seem to be related to my school, or not Japanese. Sorry in advance, but the rant doesn't stop here. In fact, it gets better. Sunday night I was invited to meet a japanese girl and 4 of her friends. Two of them got sick though so in the end it was only three girls. I was accompanied by Joe and Dave. We met them in funabashi, chiba-ken, since they do not live in Tokyo. The girl who I had met from japan-guide.com came to meet us at the train station. She was very goofy, her way of speaking English was very odd, perhaps due to the things she chose to say and how she said that. Grammatically she was usually correct, but did not speak in a very natural way.Upon arrival at the izakaya, we met her two friends, one Japanese, and one French. The French girl was a French teacher in Japan. The girl I met online, Miki, worked at an airport, at the ticket purchase/check in counter I think. The other Japanese girl, Chika, works at a dental clinic. She was also very cute. One thing on my mind was the difference in Japanese body temperature, which Greg heard from one of his students. The Japanese girls said they did not believe it was any different, but Angelique followed by saying in fact, the Japanese have longer intestines because they have eaten rice for so long..... um what?! She also said that when she first came to Japan she thought it was weird, but now she doesn't anymore. I was curious so I asked why and she said she wasnt quite sure but probably it was because she was young at the time and didn't understand a lot of things. Now that shes old (late twenties maybe) she was discovered all the hidden secrets. Actually Japan is completely normal, theres nothing wrong with it she says. This is very disturbing, because as a foreigner you're supposed to realize more and more how screwed up this place the longer you stay here. In conclusion she has become one of them. Looks like we lost another one.
But enough about Angelique, she left early on and because she is not Japanese yet seems to think like one she is not worth my time. Miki and Chika asked me the standard bullshit questions, this is a triad actually.
Greg told me that I should purposefully make mistakes when I speak, because a Japanese once told him we dont trust foreigners who speak perfect Japanese, because they must be a spy or something?Onto question number two: How old am I? 23. Why? 20 is to young to be of any use to anyone, especially women. I am still a child after all. Forget the fact that 20 makes you a legal adult in Japan. Upon disclosing my age the nearly universal response is extreme surprise. I suppose this is for two reasons: Japanese think foreigners look older than they really are, and foreigners think Japanese look young. But moreso than that is the way I act. I think and talk older than I am, but I still have the heart of the child. Inversely, Japanese, especially women, generally act younger than they are. A big reason for this problem is society which wants Japanese women to seem like children, need I remind you that they are inferior to men? So I look older, I act older, but the age doesn't add up. This is a problem, because it is a fact that a 25 y/o in Japan who possesses less knowledge, wisdom, intelligence, maturity, skills, charm, (insert character/personality trait here) is automatically a more worthy person of your time. Never mind the fact that girls generally dont like giving out their age, rather, they like to hear how old you think they are. Yes, I have been asked this question, more times than I would like. As a result I have grown three years older since this weekend, as well as dave.To top it all off I thought I was onto something about this whole thing. I made some comment, and Miki said wakai no ni "He's so young, but..." (Implying something in opposition to what one would expect). I asked her if this was a good or bad thing and she said its not either, or maybe its both. I asked her to explain and she really couldnt. Chika helped her out by saying "soto de asobinasai!" (Go play outside!) Miki says yes, exactly! At this point I started to laugh uncontrollably. What a farce. Either she didn't understand my question, or she was even more ignorant than I thought. I have my reasons to be surprised, but I don't like to pick on one person when they all seem the same.
Choron asked Dave if a tomato was a fruit or vegetable, because I've had this conversation with her before, and every Korean in my class thinks its a vegetable because thats what they learned in school. Dave says its a fruit, for the same scientific reason as me. It has seeds. Just like cucumbers, squash, and chili peppers. She could still hardly believe this, since they taught her otherwise, a question even came up on a test once, yet her only reason for it being a fruit is thats what they told her. I have scientific reasoning on my side. I told her you cant just accept something as it is because someone tells you, especially without a reason. I'm not sure if she still believes its a vegetable or not, but she is closer to accepting the truth now it seems. Before this next conversation occurred, Dave went home.
But more absurd than this, was the confirmation of fan death. Choron believes it possible to die if you go to sleep in a room with a fan running if you shut all the doors and windows. Her reasoning is based on hypothermia, but not every could die like this. It depends on your physical condition. So she is not completely wrong, because the only people who have died by fans, actually died because of existing conditions, or alcohol poisoning. But the Korean media perpetuates the myth. I told her only people in South Korea believe in this. So she said its a lie then? Lets just say you probably can't die like that. 9pm rolls around and she says they're going to home now. Choron almost falls down the stairs. We have a nice laugh over this, and she points me towards the train station. Its all too easy. I start walking away and within 15 seconds this Japanese guy runs up to me, starts speaking in Japanese and confirms that I speak Japanese, right?He was listening to our conversation and was impressed by my Japanese ability. He wanted to speak to me more, but I told he I was hungry so lets go to a restaurant. I'm tired now so I'm going to cut this short. But the point here is the bill was 2300 yen, but he said I only have to pay 1000. I told him about the triad of bullshit questions, and he seemed to completely understand my point. Better than that was he didnt ask me any of them, and I asked him what do you think if Japan. He says what do you mean? That question is too vague. Exactly! I exclaim. Thats why its so annoying how often I get asked. We exchange emails, we spoke English, we spoke Japanese. Awesome. I hope you enjoyed. This has been one of the most significant weekends so far. It also marks a major turning point in me. I am now 23. Japan is nothing but amazing.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
KCP Level 4 and More Deep End Dining

Sunday, February 10, 2008
The State of Things

I shall start off with the most important subject, school. The other day, I received the second grammar test back and got an 89 on it. Unfortunately, about a week ago, I received my first grammar test back and only got a 64 on it so I had to retake it on Tuesday. I am confident that I passed it the second time around. On the most recently returned kanji test I got a 95, I only missed one problem. I took another kanji test, unfortunately I'm pretty sure I will get a 95 on that one too.
We also took the first grammar test regarding the Japanese proficiency test. I have a feeling I performed well on this test as well. I am planning to take the Japanese Language proficiency test in June, but I'm not sure exactly how this is possible because I thought it was only offered once a year. Regardless I paid the fee for the application form and later I will pay the test fee, which is around $50. I also filled out the application for the part time work permit earlier this week.
Last Sunday, February 3, was the Japanese holiday setsubun. This is a holiday marking the change from winter to spring based on the old calendar. Traditionally setsubun is a time to wish for good fortune in the upcoming year, however it is also said that on this night oni (demon) come out. In order to keep them out of the house sardine heads and holly are placed in the doorway. Yet this often doesnt seem to be enough to stop them, so when the demons get into the house you throw dried beans at them while saying oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi (Out with the demons, In with the good fortune). Since real demons probably don't exist, the father of the house often dresses up as a demon on this day in order to allow the tradition to be carried out. Additionally, the dried beans are eaten in accordance with your age (so If you're 25 you eat 25 beans).
Last friday at school we experienced the setsubun tradition in the classroom. We all ate the appropriate number of beans (some people ate more) and during the middle of class two demons burst into the room. Traditionally there is the green demon and the red demon. The only clothes they wear are usually shorts made of zebra or tiger skin. They also carry a golden staff. Fortunately we had plenty of dried beans in the classroom so by throwing them at the demons we were able to keep the evil out of our lives. Afterwards the students and the teacher cleaned up the beans together.
I have come to really like this one bar near my dorm. Although all three bartenders are really great one in particular has become a good friend of mine. I enjoy telling him about my experiences in Japan as well as showing him the poems I write, which he gladly corrects any errors I might have. Moreover, in order to complete my homework assignment for the setsubun I went to the bar and the people there taught me five common phrases using the word oni, and the barmaster drew a picture of oni for me.
Additionally someone else of significance from the bar is this Brazilian guy Chris. His mother is Japanese and father German, yet he was born in Brazil. I believe he has had some experience living in an isolated small community in the jungle, but now he has been living in Japan for around fifteen years. He has a Romanian wife so in addition to speaking his native language Portuguese he can also speak Romanian, as well as Japanese and English. Right now he does some type of construction related job for Toshiba.
We have had some very interesting conversations about Japan/Tokyo mostly centered on the fractured state of this city.On the surface Tokyo seems to be a wonderful glamorous place. The economy is doing well, crime is very low, and its probably the cleanest city I've ever been in. But if you can speak Japanese and you dig deeper certain surprising aspects appear seemingly out of nowhere. I believe the root of this problem is based on the size of Japan. Its only roughly the size of California but the population is disproportionally enormous. This has lead to a severe overcrowding of the train system which is the main mode of transportation for the city. This train is integral to their lifestyle and some people feel as if they can't even escape it.
This point was fantastically illustrated by one of the short animations I saw when I went to the independent film theatre. It was about a man who lived underneath the seat of the train. Someone would deliver him meals three times a day and he would always pay attention to everything that went on around him in the train. He would be partically bothered by those people who would blatently break the train manners, such as talking noisily on their cell phone. He often wondered what life would be like outside the train in a room that wasn't so small. Yet one day he sees himself sitting on a seat in the train and suddenly he is disillusioned. His life was so intrinsically linked to the train that he felt like he lived under the seat.
And now back to the so called real Tokyo. Fashion and materialism have taken a deathgrip of this city. I have never experienced a place where material possessions are believed to be so important. Often I walk down the street in Shinjuku and look at the passing girls and think to myself the outfit they are wearing probably costs more than all the clothes I have in Japan combined. I have talked to a few Japanese people about my thoughts about this superficial existence, and one of my friends told me he believes that most relationships in Japan dont work out well because people are so obsessed with appearance they easily forget that someone’s mentality and personality is far more important than the clothes on their body. As a result it is very refreshing to speak to girls that can just dress casually and be satisfied with that, but regardless I have received many phone numbers without a moment of hesitation from several girls who end up never answering my phone call. Other people I have met will talk to me at first and then after some point just break off communication, as if they suddenly no longer care whatsoever.The point is I can't think of any Japanese girls as a real friend that i've met in Tokyo outside of class, except maaaybe one, but she is 44.
Interestingly, to flip things around I have talked to many Japanese guys who I really enjoy as people. Two are just as good as any English speaking friends I have. But the interest in Japanese guys among the female KCP students is actually very low. According to one Malaysian girl, she doesnt like Japanese men because she always sees them looking at the adult magazines in the convenience stores. This is particularly interesting to me because as far as I know all the adult magazines are kept sealed in the store, yet right next to them are manga which almost invariably have a picture of a barely clothed woman on the cover. Yet, on the inside there's maybe only a few more pages similar to the cover while the majority is just comics.
Despite all of this, it doesn't stop Tokyo from being one of the most amazing cities in the world.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Demonstrating Ochakai for the American KCP Students

The other day I went to a korean restaurant with some american students and we had yakiniku. The grilled meat was very good. After that I went back to Shinjuku and met one of the new korean students in my class. She brought her friend and we had a couple drinks at the bar. We stayed a little too long though so I missed the last train. I slept in McDonalds for a while and then went to a cafe and my friend came and met me. He’s the one who works in Shinjuku trying to save up money to go to Australia in April for maybe 2 years. He works at night so he was able to meet me at 4am.
I finally went to Shimokitazawa which is only 2 subway stops from the Shinjuku station. I went with Dave and my friend Joe who also lives in the Fuchu dorm with me. We saw a series of very odd short animations, including one about tooth man, the man who lived under the subway car seats, and a fish talking on its way from the market to being eaten. This trendy area is full of cheap stuff and interesting restaurants. I bought a jacket and jeans for $7 each. We went to this one Japanese restaurant and they were hiring staff. I forgot to ask but maybe I will go back to see if I can get a job there making use of my UC Santa Cruz dining hall work experience and my short time as a busboy in Long Beach.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
KCP Winter Quarter Begins

My second quarter has begun at KCP and I moved up as expected to Level 4. I did very well on the final: 95 on the kanji and composition, 96 on the grammar, but only about 75 on the reading and listening. This week, I am planning to go to an area I have not yet visited in Tokyo with Dave called Shimoto Kitazawa. He says its awesome; we're going to see a movie at a short film theatre there.
I have applied for some part time english teaching jobs, and I bought the monthly train pass which was about $150. Hopefully I will have a job soon though so that I will have more spending money. Also, this week is the new years party for tea ceremony, and the day after is the tea ceremony for the new american KCP students which i will participate in and also be wearing a kimono once more. Maybe I will get some more pictures from that up onto flickr.
Ive talked to some of the new American KCP students, they seemed pretty cool but I still dont know much about them. I also saw some of my Korean friends for the first time since school ended. The other day I studied my Japanese at Chikara's school, Chikara is one of my Japanese friends, and I went there with Chris. I’m starting to get to know more and more of Japanese locals in Tokyo. This one friend works 6 days a week, and with a break in his schedule, he called to take me out for dinner and a couple of drinks. He is planning to go to Australia in April, and he likes to practice English with me. His name is Yuki, just like my friend from Santa Cruz.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Lost in Translation
Two nights ago I had an especially strange experience, almost out of “Lost in Translation.” I was at the bar alone when the woman sitting next to me noticed this hat my friend gave me. It was gachapin, which is some frog guy from Japanese TV. She said she really wanted it but I didnt really want to give it to her. She spoke decent English so we talked more in English than Japanese, but still used Japanese. She was talking about an exchange where if you give somebody something you will end up with more in return, i.e. part of Japan’s culture of gifting. She was 38, and accompanied by her boyfriend/husband. She asked whether I wanted to go somewhere else to get something to eat/drink with her and her boyfriend/husband.
There was a place nearby called Misato that was also owned by the bar, so we decided to go there. I told her she could have the hat at the end of the night, but I just ended up giving it to her before we even left the Fuchu bar. She seemed so suprised that I actually gave it to her and kept asking if it was really hers. She was already pretty drunk at this point. So we went to Misato and since I dont know anything about sake besides the fact that I like the dry kind, I told her boyfriend to pick something for me. They asked me what I wanted to eat and I said I like sashimi. Yoko (the girl) asked me what kind I didnt like and I said kai (shellfish). Then she asked me why I dont like tai, and what that is in english. Tai is seabream and I told her, but I said I didnt say tai I said kai. I said I really like toro, maguro, and tako. She asks me what the difference was between tai and tako, I told her I like the way tako feels in your mouth but I dont really like the flavor of shellfish too much. On a side note I do enjoy shellfish more than I used to, but its still not a particular favorite. So the sashimi comes and it is in front of Yoko. I'm eating it, and I think she is very surprised at how well I use chopsticks, as I reach across to pick up the sashimi.
As I was eating she says I look like the emperor and she tried to adjust my posture. Either I was slouching too much or sitting up too straight... I really dont know. Then out of nowhere she starts saying I shouldnt eat the fish. During oshogatsu (Japanese New Year celebration) the fish market closes down for several days, so she said it was old. It doesnt taste good. And I said I never said it doesnt taste good, I like it. I know but it doesnt taste good says Yoko. Tell the chef you dont want to eat it. I was getting really confused at this point. Once again she asks if the hat is really hers to keep. I said yes. I said I came to Japan by myself, that I have no family here. My parents are planning to come to Japan and she says no they cant. I was very suprised and said why not. Because you dont have a koseki. Whats a koseki? Oh its very hard to explain. I (yoko) have a koseki but you dont. If a foreigner marries a Japanese person, then they would get one. At this point I looked up koseki and it is family register. Then I told her they were just coming to visit me so she says ok thats fine then.
At this point, Yoko is very drunk and is staring at me. She then wrapped her fingers around my necklace and gazed at it for a few moments. I said you want this? No answer. Finally I took her hand away from my silver Japanese necklace (which was a holiday gift from my parents a year ago) and asked her, what do you want now? She started talking about how much she loved her boyfriend, mixing in English with the Japanese, such that at times I was not sure what she was really saying. Around this time her boyfriend said that its time to go. But she says no you go on ahead, I'm gonna stay here. He says no we're going right now, so lets go. He almost had to drag her out the door and without saying anything he apologized to me with a look alone. I still had my second glass of sake and the food, all of which they paid for so I continued to sit there and eat and drink. I asked the man working behind the counter if he had any idea what really happened and he said no..... It was so bizarre.
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
New Years on Takaosan
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Visiting Aizu, More Deep End Dining, Conducting a Tea Ceremony, and Clubbing in Tokyo
The trip to Aizu was amazing. First we went to the wakamatsu tsurugajou, the view from the top of the castle was amazing. On the bus ride there we played a game with the teachers where they would make the noise of an animal in Japanese and we had to guess what it was. Afterwards we would give the english sound. The teacher in charge was so cute, you can see her trying not to die as she climbs down the stone steps in the adjoining picture taken from my flickr collection. For frog someone said it was rabbit, and she said ribitch, it was quite amusing.After the castle we went to the byakkotai memorial/grave. This was an event when a group of aizu samurai saw the area around the castle burning and they thought they lost the war so they went to go kill themselves. They gathered at a meeting place but one samurai got lost on the way and his dog found him in the forest so he survived. Another did cut his stomach but a wandering farmer found him and saved him. Everyone else died. Afterwards we went to the museum honoring them and there was so much amazing calligraphy. There were a few kanji poems, no kana, so Fei, the taiwanese girl read them aloud for me and they were very beautiful. She translated them as well and although they made sense they lost their beauty.
From the museum we went to the house where a samurai family used to live. It was the house of the leader of the aizu clan. It was very beautiful, I wouldnt mind living in a place like that.
After that we went to urushi (lacquer) factory. There they produced many beautiful things from cups to plates and chopsticks and boxes. Basically if you can craft it from wood they had it. The most amazing things were the tools for the tea ceremony. The cha`ire (container for matcha) were amazing, but even more so was the price. They started at about $200 maybe and went all the way up to $3700! I had a very hard time deciding something to buy so I just ended up buying chopsticks and a bowl for myself. I already bought some things for gifts to take back to American in Nikko, and thus, I wasn't ready to spend any more money.
After the factory we went to the hotel. Everyone was wearing the yukata and we had an enormous meal at the hotel. We got a whole crab, maguro and ebi sashimi, ama ebi (sweet shrimp), broiled bamboo shoot, crab soup, pickled vegetables, rice, tea, and probably some more I forgot. I almost ate everything, but I couldnt finish the crab. After dinner most of the students went in the onsen (Japanese baths). I talked to a Japanese man for a little while there and he showed me what happens when someone is sad. His crying impression was so funny; he said this is what happens when you girlfriend breaks up with you.
In the morning we went to (touchijuku?) A small town that preserves Edo period architecture. It was very quaint and beautiful, and it even snowed! I tasted a grasshopper for the first time, it wasnt so bad. Crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and sweet and salty from the seasonings. I also bought some plums which have been blackened by coals or something. All I know is they are the best salted plums I have ever had. I still havent opened them. On top of that, so many students bought food from that shop, the shopkeeper gave us three bags of seasoned burdock roots from free.
The next day we went to Tou no Hetsuri, which is a natural rock formation created over millions of years by wind and water erosion. There I sampled two different kinds of miso soup, and a fried anko thing which tasted some some sort of amazing donut. They also sold viper liquor. This is when you take a live viper and pour sake into its jar drowning it. Afterwards when you drink the liquor its supposed to be somekind of health elixir. They also sold one with enormous wasps instead of the snake. The rock formation was simply amazing, quite possibly the most stunning thing I have ever seen in nature. You could really feel the ancient energies resulting from the slow formation of the rock towers.
From there we went to lunch, it was nothing special, I had a bowl of mountain vegetable soba. Afterwards we went into the bakery where they had free samples of cheesecake. People went crazy like it usually happens with that desert (I simply dont understand what all the fuss is about) and Tanaka-san also ate his fair share. I saw him run away with a goofy grin on his face and I told him that Ive never seen him look so guilty in his entire life. He just burst out laughing and I thought he wasnt even going to say anything, but eventually he said the look the worker gave him was if you like it that much why dont you actually buy one! It was hilarious.
After that we went to an animal farm where they have supposedly famous ice cream. It was good, but still doesnt compare to anything from Italy or even America. I went on the bungee trampoline there which allowed me to do flips for the first time in many moons. It was a lot of fun, until I stopped and realized my hands had practically frozen. After the farm we headed back to Tokyo. Aizu was quite possibly even better than the trip to Nikko. I had a blast!
Last Thursday I went out and had a few drinks with the girl I met at a club. She is the only Japanese girl I have gone out with again after the first meeting. She is a dental assistant, maybe about 25, and still lives with her parents. She told me she had a boyfriend four years ago who was the ideal man, but I think she broke up with him when he said he wanted to marry her but she wasnt ready. She seems as if maybe she likes me, but I dont really know. I plan to see her again sometime over the break. She is very busy with her job, so there are not many opportunities.
Friday I went to a party of a Japanese guy I met at that same club. It was actually a gay club in Nichome, so almost everyone there was gay except for the group of Americans I came with (excluding one, who brought us to to the club in the first place). The party was great, after our host had some drinks he was sooo funny. He was ridiculous. Near the end a Japanese girl showed up, she was amusing. She was amazed by our efforts studying Japanese. She said that after she studies something for two years she just goes to sleep.
Yesterday, I went to a live concert that Miki-san, Tomoko-san's oldest son, is affiliated with. Miki is a great singer, guitarist, and pianist. Shin-san also performed, as well as Mikako, Maki-san's girlfriend. She is the only one in my extended host family who will drink, and she had a fewdrinks by the time she performed. She messed up while singing, and apologized for it before continuing. Afterwards she came up to me, and I told her she performed well. All the performances were great, but one band called Janet Seven were on a completely different page than the rest of the set. They had their volume blasting, and played some type of crazy punk fusion. The guitarist was in a trance, and the singer danced like a freak. As he sang he would spill his mints on the ground and then pick them up and pop them in his mouth. It was quite the amusing performance, if not a little too loud.
I invited my friend David to the concert, who coincidentally is going to homestay with Tomoko-san next quarter. She invited him to the concert when she found out, but he said he already had plans. The great part is because I had already invited him!
Today Im just staying at home. Im going to get to my studies after this. Everything is going great... but Im starting to get a little sad knowing some of my best friends are going home after the fall quarter ends. But some are staying, and new students are coming next quarter! I hope to make friends with the Japanese living in my dorm in Fuchu next quarter, as well as meeting more Japanese girls. I still need to start looking for a job though...